Security in Mozambique

It doesn’t matter how you dress, whether you are male or female, young or old, in Mozambique, if you are white, then you must be rich. And the odd thing is, that in most instances, the conclusion is likely to be true: You are wealthy by Mozambican standards.

It’s a perception among many of the natives that, like it or not, leads to restriction of personal freedom for white people. They must always be aware of where they are and what they are doing. They are at risk of being relieved of money, jewelry, even clothing and shoes. The American Embassy warns of car jackings and home robberies. They suggest keeping car windows rolled up, avoiding night driving and caravanning with another vehicle or two when traveling any distance. “Don’t walk on the beach. Stay away from lower downtown. Take a big dog when you go for a walk,” the embassy warns.

Security precautions are everywhere. Homes, offices and schools are gated and many have electric fences around them. At the American School two men stand guard at the gate, even when school is not in session. You can only enter if you have the right sticker on your car.

Whites living in the city routinely hire full-time guards at their homes. Some are uniformed and carry a gun. Others are equipped with a “panic button” they can press to alert a security service. Most work 24-hour shifts and they range from strong and trustworthy to weak and not so dependable.  They may do light home maintenance, gardening or run errands for their employers.

My daughter’s family employed three guards who each earned about $100 a month for part-time work. The cast of characters changed several times while I was there, not without considerable drama. One was fired for stealing. Another came to his second job interview smelling of alcohol. Casamo, the youngest, moved slowly and always looked as if he hadn’t had enough sleep. He loved plants and seemed happiest when he was pruning bushes, weeding, transplanting and cutting the tiny bit of backyard grass with hedge clippers. If the temperature dropped below 70 degrees,  Casamo donned his wool hat and down coat. Even though he only worked every third day, he regularly asked for paid vacation time.

Simon was a skilled handyman. He washed windows, fixed doorknobs, knew how to drive. He had nine children from three different wives. He spoke a few words of English and was anxious to learn more. He and I traded word lists in Portuguese and English.

Before you leave a grocery store, you must show your receipt and have the items in your cart checked against it. It takes some getting used to.

I soon learned where it was safe to walk.  Occasionally I ran in the streets but most of the time I ran within the boundaries of the American School where eight times around the grounds equaled two miles. I did drive at night to attend book club meetings, but I didn’t go without thinking twice about it.

Such a huge inequality gap may give have-nots some sort of unspoken permission to help themselves to a bit of the excess they see among the haves. In the last decade, Mozambique’s economy has improved. Perhaps one day, the fences will come down and the guards will no longer be necessary.